Amateur Practice of Traditional Crafts in Japan: Okeiko and Stencil Dyeing

Authors

  • MARIA JOSE SANTAMARIA HERGUETA INTERNATIONAL CHRISTIAN UNIVERSITY, TOKYO, JAPAN

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.18533/jah.v11i04.2266

Keywords:

stencil dyeing, traditional crafts, Japan, amateur practice, cultural heritage

Abstract

The paper focuses on the amateur practice of Japanese traditional folk crafts, in particular stencil dyeing using resist-paste made of rice, or katazome. The amateur practice of traditional crafts or okeiko, requires a serious commitment to the practice and to the philosophy and tradition of the craft. Okeiko implies training in an atelier within a group for a considerable period of time. Of more than 80% of the population reportedly involved in some type of leisure activity, the amateur practice of traditional crafts represents less than 3%. The breakdown of this percentage into various traditional crafts, such as traditional folk textile dyeing is not available. This study is the first attempt to investigate such practice through the insider views of the members of an amateur group in Japan. The study uses 19 semi-structured interviews, four oral histories, a survey of 37 amateur dyers, participatory observation, and documentary analysis to collect and generate data, which are analyzed using a framework built from the fieldwork. The amateur dyers started their practice out of their admiration for the works of Serizawa Keisuke. Joining an amateur group contributed to their self-realization, through the acquisition of new skills and the creation of what they considered to be beautiful things. Okeiko led to social interactions and camaraderie relationships permeated by femininity. The dyeing work produced related to cultural heritage, and to the notion of national identity. Further studies would consolidate knowledge about the impact of these amateur groups on the continuity of traditional crafts in Japan.     

References

Abe, R. (1999). The Weaving of Mantra: Kûkai and the Construction of Esoteric Buddhist Discourse. Columbia University Press, p. 392.

Arts Council England (2008). Our Creative Talent: The Voluntary and Amateur Arts in England”. Dep Media, Culture. https://culturehive.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Our-Creative-Talent.pdf

Brinton, M. C. (2003). Fact-rich, data-poor: Japan as sociologists’ heaven and hell. Doing fieldwork in Japan, 87-110.

Bryan-Wilson, J., & Piekut, B. (2019). Amateurism. Third Text, 34(1), 1-21.

https://doi.org/10.1080/09528822.2019.1682812

Chambers, S. V. (1971). The art of katazome. Japan Quarterly, 18(2), 219.

Edwards, R. & Holland, J. (2013). What is qualitative interviewing? London, Great Britain. Bloomsbury Academic.

Etikan, I., Musa, S. A., & Alkassim R.S. (2016). Comparison of Convenience Sampling and Purposive Sampling. American Journal of Theoretical and Applied Statistics. 5(1), 1-4. DOI:10.11648/j.ajtas.20160501.11

Gordon, A. (2003). A Modern History of Japan: From Tokugawa Times to the Present. New York: Oxford University Press Print.

Hackney, F., Maughan, H., & Desmarais, S.L. (2016). The Power of Quiet: Re-making Affective Amateur and Professional Textiles Agencies. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 4, 33 - 62. DOI:10.1080/20511787.2016.1256139

Harada, M. (2005). Japan. In Cushman, G., Veal, A. J., & Zuzamek, J. (Eds.), Free Time and Leisure Participation International Perspectives (pp. 153-162). CABI International. DOI

1079/9780851996202.0000

Heo J., Stebbins, R.A., Kim, J., & Lee I. (2013). Serious Leisure, Life Satisfaction, and Health of Older Adults. Leisure Sciences: An Interdisciplinary Journal, 35(1), 16-32.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/262873202_Serious_Leisure_Life_Satisfaction_and_Health_of_Older_Adults.

Iwasaki, Y. (2007). Leisure and quality of life in an international and multicultural context: what are major pathways linking leisure to quality of life?. Social Indicators Research,

(2), 233–264. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11205-006-9032-z

J-Net 21. (2018). T?gei ky?shitsu (Pottery training trend). Organization for small & medium enterprises and regional innovation.

https://j-net21.smrj.go.jp/startup/guide/service/05027.html

Japan Productivity Center (2017). Lejura hakusho – ch?sa kenky?jo teigen katsud? (Leisure white paper 2017 – Survey and proposal). https://www.jpc-net.jp/research/list/leisure.html

Knott, D.S. (2011). Amateur craft as a differential practice. PhD Thesis. Royal College of Art. Arts and Humanities Research Council, London.

https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/12820873.pdf

Kokko, S. & Dillon, P. (2011). Crafts and craft education as expressions of cultural heritage: Individual experiences and collective values among an international group of women university students. International Journal of Technology and Design Education, 21(4), 487-503. DOI: 10.1007/s10798-010-9128-2

Kono, S., Ito, E., & Gui, J. (2020). Empirical investigation of the relationship between serious leisure and meaning in life among Japanese and Euro-Canadians. Leisure studies, 39(1), 131-145. https://doi.org/10.1080/02614367.2018.1555674

Konohanakai (1982). Serizawa Keisuke – Konohanakai Sakuhin Sh? (Serizawa Keisuke – Konohanakai works collection). Editorial Committee President Takagi Akiko. Mak?sha. Tokyo.

Kouhia, A. (2012). Categorizing the meanings of craft: A multi-perspectival framework for eight interrelated meaning categories. Techne Series - Research in Sloyd Education and Craft Science A, 19(1), 25-40. https://journals.hioa.no/index.php/techneA/article/view/395

Kunik, D. (2009). Mouvement des Arts populaires et études folkloriques. Cipango. Cahiers d’études japonaises, (16), 89-104. http://cipango.revues.org/355

Kusuda K. (1957). Konohanakai – amachyua senshoku fujin no gur?pu (Konohanakai- Women Amateur Dyeing Group). Mingei, Nihon Mingei Ky?kai, (9), 14-16.

Mason, R. (2005). The meaning and value of home?based craft. International Journal of Art & Design Education, 24(3), 261-268. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1476-8070.2005.00449.x

Mellott, R. (1993). Katazome, tsutsugaki, and yuzenzome. In W.J. Rathbun Editor, Beyond the Tanabata bridge: Traditional Japanese textiles; Exhibition catalogue of the Textile Museum, Washington, DC, 1993, and the Birmingham Museum of Art, Alabama, 1994 (pp. 51-56). Thames and Hudson, New York.

Moeran, B. (1998). A Far Valley: Four Years in a Japanese Village. Kodansha Publications.

Moeran, B. (2006). Ethnography at Work. Oxford, England: Berg Publishers. 192 pages.

Moeran, B. (2007). From participant observation to observant participation: Anthropology, fieldwork and organizational ethnography. Creative Encounters Working Papers, 1. https://research-api.cbs.dk/ws/portalfiles/portal/59008743/7038.pdf

Moeran, B. (2013). Folk art potters of Japan: beyond an anthropology of aesthetics. Routledge. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315026817

National Museums of Scotland (2001). Serizawa Master of Japanese Textile Design. Catalogue exhibition 11 August- 04 November 2001. Tohoku Fukushi University. 137 pages.

Nishina, K. (2020). Kokumin no yoka seikatsu ha d? henka shita ka – shakai seikatsu kihon ch?sa ni miru 30 nen no yoka katsud? no henka (How has the leisure life of the population changed? Changed in leisure activities for the past 30 years, based on the survey on social life. Mizuho Information and Research Institute, Vol 19.

Policy Studies Institute. (1991). The amateur arts and crafts. Cultural Trends, 3(12), 31-52.

Pontsioen, R. G. (2012). Tradition in the making: The life and work of Tokyo craftsmen

(Doctoral dissertation, University of Aberdeen).

Portes, A. (1998). Social Capital: Its Origins and Applications in Modern Sociology. Annual Review of Sociology, 24(1), 1-24. www.jstor.org/stable/223472

Ruisma?ki, H., & Juvonen, A. (2006). What does Making Things with Your Own Hands Give and Mean to You? – Experiences About Using Skills of Hands and Producing Artefacts. The Spaces of Creation (Ku?rybos erdve?s), 5, 110-¬115. https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/14921976.pdf

Shiner, L. (2012). Blurred Boundaries? Rethinking the Concept of Craft and Its Relation to Art and Design. Philosophy Compass 7 (4): 230–244. DOI 10.1111/j.1747-9991.2012.00479.x

Shiratori, S. (2016). Serizawa Keisuke no Iroha: Kaneko korekushon ten (Serizawa Keisuke no Iroha: Kaneko collection exposition). Newsletter of the National Museum of Modern Art, Tokyo. Modern Eye April-May, 617, 6-7.

Statistics Bureau of Japan (2017). Leisure Activities. Survey of Time Used & Leisure Activities. Ministry of Internal Affairs and Communications of Japan.

https://www.stat.go.jp/english/data/shakai/2016/k-gaiyou.html

Sugiyama, K., Mori, R., Yamauchi Y. (2018). Seijin no shumi ni okeru ky?mi no fukamari to gakushu kanky? no kankei (Relationship between adults` interest in hobbies and their learning environment in amateur orchestra musicians). Japan Educational Engineering Conference, 42(1), 31-41. https://doi.org/10.15077/jjet.41087

Tanimura, R. (2015). Special Issue: Japan-consciousness and Femaleness: Girls Learning Based on Textbooks for Women in the Edo Period. International Japanese Studies, 13, 151-179. International Institute of Japanese Studies, Hosei University.

https://hosei.repo.nii.ac.jp/?action=pages_view_main&active_action=repository_view_main_item_detail&item_id=22266&item_no=1&page_id=13&block_id=83

Thomas, D.R. (2006). A General Inductive Approach for Analyzing Qualitative Evaluation Data. American Journal of Evaluation, 27(2), 237-246. DOI:10.1177/1098214005283748

Wang, M., & Wong, M.C.S. (2014). Happiness and Leisure Across Countries: Evidence from International Survey Data. Journal of Happiness Studies, 15, 85–118. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10902-013-9417-z

Wilson, R.L. (2007). Mingei: Japanese Folk Art. Working Papers in Japan Studies, 9. International Christian University, Tokyo. Japan.

Wuthnow, R., & Witten, M. (1988). New Directions in the Study of Culture. Annual Review of Sociology, 14(1), 49-67. https://www.jstor.org/stable/2083310

Yano, C. R. (2003). Tears of longing: Nostalgia and the nation in Japanese popular song (Vol. 206). Harvard Univ Asia Center.

Young, L. (1999). Marketing the Modern: Department Stores, Consumer Culture, and the New Middle Class in Interwar Japan. International Labor and Working-Class History, 55, 52-70. DOI:10.1017/S014754799900318X

Young, L. (2013). Urbanism and Japanese Modern (Introduction and Epilogue). In Beyond the Metropolis: Second Cities and Modern Life in Interwar Japan, 3-14 and 240-258. University of California Press. www.jstor.org/stable/10.1525/j.ctt2855q3.4, www.jstor.org/stable/10.1525/j.ctt2855q3.10

Downloads

Published

2022-06-05

Issue

Section

Article

Similar Articles

1-10 of 287

You may also start an advanced similarity search for this article.